California Bounty

Wine

THE NEW YEAR is getting off to an intense start, at least in the world of California red wines. Recent vintages have produced abundant fruit in consistently high quality, and the masters of the winemaking trade have worked their magic like never before. The result: greater selections to suit any taste or pocketbook in four red-wine categories: Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Rhone varietals and Zinfandel.

The wines listed here were selected based on quality and price range from different viticultural areas——from Napa and Sonoma in the north to the burgeoning areas in the central coast (Paso Robles, Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Rita Hills and Santa Maria).

As a quick indication of what to expect from each varietal, the Cabernet Sauvignon aroma is usually slightly herbaceous, with a blend of spiciness, mint, cedar and ripe berries in the bouquet and multiple dimensions on the palate. The initial layers of fruit and tannins are followed by the nuances and subtleties delivered by the winemaker and varying degrees of barrel and bottle aging. Impressions of the best wines linger for minutes while the lesser lights vaporize quickly——whispers of a wine rather than enological eloquence. Cabernets are a match for red meats and more straightforward sauces. With aging, they will open up, soften and complement lighter sauces.

Pinot Noir is more subtle and seductive than other red varietals and often dismissed by elite wine drinkers as thin. The best titillate the nose with a bouquet of cherries and strawberries, oak, clove and vanilla, plus dashes of earthiness and stemminess when the winemaker has used traditional Burgundian methods. On the palate, the intriguing nature of Pinot Noir makes it a complement rather than a competitor to fine cuisine with complex sauces.

Syrah and the Rhone varietals are almost Port-like in their depth of color and show a peppery component in the bouquet, enhanced with traces of blackberry, chocolate, spice and licorice. The wines can blast your senses with an in-your-face-and-palate style, which stands up well to barbecue (some Texas friends say Syrah even goes well with chili).

The Zinfandel bouquet is alive with berries and briar and, depending on the winemaker’s style, can be anything from a quaffing wine to serve with cheese and crackers to a more refined, stylish wine that complements barbecue and Italian cuisine with heartier red sauces.

Now, for your sampling pleasures (note that prices are approximate and vary widely among merchants):

Cabernet Sauvignon

Beaulieu Vineyards 2004 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon, $20.

Beringer 2004 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, $38.

Caymus 2004 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection, $140.

Duckhorn 2004 Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, $95.

Joseph Phelps 2004 Insignia (Bordeaux blend, 72 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 14 percent Merlot, 12 percent Petite Verdot, 2 percent Malbec), Napa Valley, $160.

Pine Ridge 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville, $70.

Robert Mondavi 2004 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, $130.

Spottswoode 2004 Napa Valley Estate Grown, $120.

Pinot Noir

DuMOL 2005 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, $60.

Foley 2005 Pinot Noir Reserve, Rancho Santa Rosa, Santa Rita Hills, $50.

Joseph Swan 2004 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Trenton Estate Vineyard, $40.

Longoria Wines 2005 Pinot Noir, Bien Nacido Vineyard, $40.

Mount Eden 2004 Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains, $35.

Williams-Selyem 2004 Pinot Noir, Flax Vineyard, $50.

Rhone Varietals

Beckmen 2005 Grenache, Purisima Mountain, Santa Ynez, $38.

Ojai Vineyards 2005 Syrah, Santa Rita Hills, Melville Vineyards, $60.

Rosenblum Cellars 2005 Syrah, Abba Vineyard, Lodi, $25.

Saxum 2005 James Berry Vineyard Red (70 percent Syrah, 20 percent Mourvedre, 10 percent Grenache), Paso Robles, $48.

Sine Qua Non 2004 Into the Dark (84 percent Grenache, 8 percent Mourvedre, 7 percent Syrah, 1 percent Viognier), California (Santa Rita Hills), $110.

Stolpman 2005 Syrah, Santa Ynez Valley, Estate, $30.

Tablas Creek 2005 Espirit de Beaucastel (44 percent Mourvedre, 26 percent Grenache, 25 percent Syrah, 5 percent Counoise), Paso Robles, $42.

Zinfandel

Tobin James 2005 Zinfandel, James Gang Reserve, Paso Robles, $25.

V. Sattui 2005 Zinfandel, Pilgrim Vineyard, Lodi, $25.

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Wine provided by the Wine Bank, San Diego, 619-234-7487; sdwinebank.com.

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